As a fashion designer, I have long been cognizant of the relationship between inner emotions and clothing choices. Putting together an outfit involves a complex thought process of both the conscious and subconscious. Cut and proportion are the two main factors when it comes to expressing oneself as funny, serious, victorious, indifferent, sexy, conservative, etc.
In pre-industrial societies, clothes often reflected occupations and/or religious affiliations, as well as standing in the social structure. Then the advent of ready-made goods in the late 19th century gave consumers some new options. As Diana Crane writes in her compelling book, "Fashion and its Social Agenda," as "the construction of personal identity outside the workplace became increasingly important" clothing offered "a wide range of choices for the expression of lifestyles or sub-cultural identities well as of the individual's emotional state."
Crane offers an analysis of the blue jean as signaling rebellion, adding that when blue jeans are worn with white T-shirt and black leather jacket, the rebellious connotations are accentuated. When the punk movement emerged, elements such as metal studs took the theme further, as did safety pins struck into the ears and eyebrows. Today's younger generation adds a twist by wearing jeans below the waist at a sagging level. The sloppy look has angered and worried parents and school officials, leading to the passage of ordinances against low-slung pants in various cities around the country.
As a clothing designer, I believe these young people are not only making a fashion statement but also expressing social and political statements. They are deriding establishment values and reflecting the rips in our social fabric.
It's clear, meanwhile, that something has gone terribly wrong with our justice system, which lately seems more like an "injustice system" where justice can be purchased. I am among those who have been disappointed by our justice system, and my personal court battle has had a profound effect on my clothing choices and personal and professional creativity.
I used to wear a suit and tie every day — and I designed formal clothing. But my bitter court experience affected me emotionally, shifting my attention toward anti-establishment styles.
I now use textures, motifs, and styles that comfort me and express my inner emotions. Looking sloppy by wearing sagging pants satisfies the need to express an objection to what is happening today — and to express doubts about the challenges which lie ahead for me personally and all of us globally.
This not only pertains to clothing, but also to contemporary art, music, dance, painting, etc. In fact, as our social justice system has declined in strength and moral backbone, our contemporary art has grown more aggressive.
All of this should serve as a reminder that discussions of art and fashion trends should never focus on legislating codes and ordinances against the wearers or the artists. Discussions should center on the social conditions which must change in order for people to feel more hopeful and ultimately to express themselves differently.
Perhaps it is time for all of us to be responsible and to make our voices heard by expressing ideas based on knowledge and wisdom.
Alex Angelino is a contributor to the L.A. Garment & Citizen.
Photo of Alex Angelino from L.A. Garment & Citizen; other images from Wikimedia Commons
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As someone who works with young people everyday, I believe they are only making a fashion statement. Not expressing social and political statements or deriding establishment values and reflecting the rips in our social fabric. Just sagging because that's what their friends do. Stop reading so much into it.